We arrived at SETEC, the main venue for SFW, a little early today and sat down for a quick chat with designer Kim Sun Ho of Groundwave before going to see popular menswear brand MVIO. The morning wrapped up the last of the menswear SFW shows and the afternoon buzzed with energy as womenswear buyers filled the halls.

While Korean menswear is well received overseas, particularly in Europe and the US, the styles seem restricted to two looks: either a Korean spin to preppy Euro-style, or something mod and avant-garde. Womenswear, on the other hand, shows a lot more diversity and variation; in the fashion industry, it’s where most of the money is. Of today’s shows, Steve J & Yoni P’s and Andy and Debb’s collections were more wearable while the Kwak Hyun Joo Collection displayed fine fashion theatrics.

MVIO
This menswear label is popular among those in their 20s and 30s, especially for their suits. Some locals have compared MVIO to US brand Club Monaco as both have share a sophisticated classic style and price point. The show starts with a documentary-style voiceover and slow techno beats, and a huge backdrop of a classroom-style chalkboard covered in math equations is revealed. Throughout the collection, aprons – constructed in wool, leather or as a color-blocked panel on jackets – were layered upon the brand’s famous suits. Designer Han Sang Hyuk’s meticulous attention was not missed, witnessed through colorful argyle socks seen on every model. The techno beats were stepped up to introduce denims, and two faceless looks were the first crowd-wowing runway theatrics we’ve seen at SFW so far. A brilliant show overall.

Steve J & Yoni P
The new collection by designer-couple Steve Jung and Yoni Pai was delightfully fun. After the beautiful, plaid-clad boys and feminine military men on the first two days, this fun and quirky womenswear brand was even more refreshing than usual. Dubbed “Arrested Adolescence”, the collection moved away from the typical playful colors and patterns to show a more mature side of the Steve J & Yoni P girl. While there was a lot of black, the collection was far from somber. Sheer black lace with polka dots, lace prints, flirty dresses and T-shirts with a Steve-drawn “Yoni” bear communicated the label’s signature youthful and whimsical flavor but with an added air of edge and rebelliousness, like a teenager testing boundaries through fashion. Models sported pouty red lips and an all-over “wet look” – wet hair tied into a bun and water sprinkled on models’ legs for extra shine.

Andy and Debb
Known for their romantic and minimalist designs, husband-and-wife designer couple Andy and Debb’s collection was a little disappointing. Showing their women’s then men’s line, the show dragged on, and aside from identical hair and makeup on the models, it was hard to see the cohesion in this collection. Girls with short hair, straight bangs and red lips wore A-line dresses and slim-cut suits. Shimmery metallics, extraordinary feathered jackets, luxe suits and oversized flap pockets were note-worthy. Orange, greens and flap-pocket suits dominated the menswear line. .

Kwak Hyun Joo Collection
For a lack of words and understanding, “beautifully bizarre” probably best describes this collection. Themed “circus”, designer Kwak Hyun Joo delivered quite a show, literally, alternating between women’s and menswear. Almost straight out of a futuristic burlesque act, the first model strutted out sans pants, with exotic makeup and hair pulled into a high ponytail. More bottom-baring models with high, high skirt hems and equally high ponytails followed. Looks combined silk, sequins, wool and leather; in terms of color, there were reds, yellow and browns pushed with basic black. The models stormed down the ramp almost angrily, hips swaying slightly to the circus music, and the entire show screamed of glitter, glam, girl, sex and dance. Definitely not commercial, which may explain the show’s high celebrity attendance rate..

More womenswear shows tomorrow, so stayed tuned for Day Four front-row report!

This article is part of the The YesStylist Seoul Fashion Week F/W 2011 Coverage